Tags: ascp

Annie Sloan Chalk Paint Q&A

While I’m on the topic of Annie Sloan paint products, here is the Q&A that I promised.  I hope I’m not wearing some of you out with this painting furniture topic.  I just always like to supply my readers with as much info as I can.

First, though, let me thank my panel of experts who so graciously answered all of my questions:

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Katie from Wildwood Creek

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Melynda from Nod to the Past

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Anneke from This, That and Life

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Cassie from Primitive and Proper – green is painted with CeCe Caldwell Paints

Wendi from Thelma and Louize

And, a reader – Ann Wilson.

Those ladies (above) have all done multiple pieces using Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (ASCP) and know what they are talking about!  Thank you for sharing your knowledge with a newbie.  Below is Q&A style information on the ASCP process that I got from them.  Enjoy.

I also read posts from Miss Mustard Seed and Perfectly Imperfect for further information.  What can I say?  I’m an information junkie.

When you use ASCP, do you prime or sand?  Is it difficult to cover a dark wood that has a poly on it?
No priming or sanding needed on any piece.  It will work on just about anything – mdf, plywood, metal…  On a side note, I have heard of people needing to use primer, like Kilz, if something is ‘bleeding’ through. This hasn’t happened to me yet.

How many coats does it take?
It depends on what color of chalk paint you’re using. I’ve had most go on smooth in one coat, but Olde White, for example, has always come out showing lines and 2-3 coats.  It also depends on the look you’re going for.  ASCP actually looks nice on furniture with sealers like poly versus raw wood.

I heard waxing is difficult?  Is it?
There was a small learning curve for me when I first used it.  Waxing can be difficult, and while I don’t do it much anymore, you can seal it with polyurethane, polcrylic, or spray lacquer.

See this video about waxing.

Do small areas at a time.  If you find u have too much in an area, apply some mineral spirits lightly and it will smooth the area out.

How soon after painting can you wax?
You can wax as soon as the paint is dry to the touch, and it dries very quickly!


ASCP-002-3 ASCP-010-2

Can I put a second coat of wax on right away?
You can add a second coat of wax shortly after the first, just make sure it does not feel tacky.  In other words, let the first coat dry out a bit first.

How long do you wait after waxing, before buffing?
You can buff when the piece is no longer tacky.  I usually wait 2 to 4 hours to buff.  You can wait overnight.

When can I sit things on the piece?
It does take a while for the wax to cure. You run the danger of scratching it if you sit on it too soon, as the wax might still be soft. Not sure that it takes three weeks though, but to be on the safe side that would probably be good.

At least a few days, but up to three weeks to be safe.

How do you clean the wax off of your brush?
Cooking oil, then soapy water.

How do you get paint and wax off of the glass?
Just like with your brushes.  If you didn’t tape it off, then put cooking oil on first (without getting it on the paint).  Soapy water on after that.  Water to rinse.  Wipe dry.  Gets it all off.

General Tips
- I keep a little bowl of water and dab my brush in it to keep the paint smooth and ez to roll on and into those corners, etc.

- If you have an area that u find the paint is showing “oranging! Rusty colors”, stop trying to paint over it and you need to seal the furniture with a sealer. Before the paint color will look right. I used to keep trying to paint again, and it just looked like a grease spot every time on that part.

- If you happen to use white paint, be sure to buff with a white cloth.  Trust me on this one.  I used colored rags on other colors of paint with no problem.  Just be sure to use a white cloth on white paint.

- I purchased a small waxing buffer machine and use it on items I want to be shinier. I love it! Annie herself told me if I wanted that look to apply wax, wait one day, and buff it with a machine and it would shine and she was right!

- Adding clear wax over dark wax helps get off too much dark wax ore to lighten it.  You can do this up to a couple of days after.

- Be sure to buff with a clean cloth.

- For a very light version of the dark stain, try clear first and then mix a bit of dark with the clear for a second coat.

- You can mix the wax with any color of paint or wax that you want for a different look.

- Don’t hesitate to add water if the paint seems thick or you need to make it stretch further.

- If the wax is tacky for over a few hours, try buffing again.  Buff hard!  STILL tacky – try a very very very light wipe with a cloth damp with mineral spirits.

Check out yesterday’s post for additional tips.

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Note, Cassie at Primitive and Proper now makes her own chalk paint mixing plaster of paris in with latex paint.  You can also mix paint with calcium carbonate or unsanded grout.

Do you have any tips to add?  Have you made your own?  What’d you use?  How did it turn out?  I’d love to hear more about your experience with chalk paint, especially ASCP.


P.S.  Sweet Ashley at Attempts at Domestication (entry 5) won the Panyl giveaway!  Congrats!

My Take on Annie Sloan Chalk Paint

Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (ASCP) is a big deal right now.  Why?  No sanding and priming required.  It’s one of the easiest ways to revive furniture.  The idea is that you can finish a smaller piece in a day, though curing time for the wax is up to 3 weeks.  The reason many hesitate to buy?  It’s expensive !  Almost $40 a quart!

I already own two pieces (that I bought already refinished) that are painted with ASCP. My tv stand, done by Thelma and Louise, is more distressed, see below.


ASCP-004-2 ASCP-001-2

While my dresser, painted by Nod to the Past, is more smooth and sleek.


I love these two pieces, so I wanted to try this magical ASCP myself.

I purchased a few paint colors, waxes and a brush last week.  And, after playing with the AS products in my spare time (between clients and late at night), I probably spent 15 hours painting this piece.  At least.  Maybe more.  So, I thought, I’d give you a beginner’s take on this paint, after having spent quality time with it.  Maybe my experience will help work some of the kinks out for you!

Here is the finished piece that I painted, though I’m waiting on new hardware to arrive since one piece is broken.


And, with the light off?  Note that the two glass shelves are not put in and the piece is not stacked yet since the wax is still drying and curing.  That’s right, I finally got out the good camera an snapped a few photos for a more accurate color.


I used Aubusson Blue and Pure White on the inside which I later mixed in some black with the white to turn it gray and repainted the inside gray.  I then covered it in clear wax for protection.  I added the dark wax for some distressing on the exterior of the pieces.



Today’s post is about my overall take on the products that I used.  Tomorrow’s post will be a Q&A format with all the questions I asked along the way – there were a lot!

Overall Impression

I loved the paint.   It went on smoothly for the most part (will talk more about the white paint below).  The wax did its job and when applied well, gives a nice finish.  The paint stuck to the glossy clear coat that was on the piece with no problem and no need for sanding or priming, as promised.  It’s very forgiving, so don’t be afraid to mess up.  You can paint over mistakes.  I’d use it again.

HOWEVER, I would not paint a piece this large on my first go around.  Nor something with an inside that requires you to be an acrobat to paint.  Sheesh.  Mistake.  Took too long to practice on a piece of this size.  And, too much paint.  Just buy a piece like this.  Want to buy this one?  Ha!

Details and Things I Learned

1.  Paint Coverage.

I heard that even though this paint is expensive, it’s rich pigment means you don’t use much and you can expect it to last a while.  I think that is true, but…

In my case, I used a lot of product… almost all of the Aubusson Blue, Pure White and waxes.  Here is why.  This is just SOME of the layers.  You can see that the Aubusson Blue varies by light and by wax.


Let’s just say this thing is coated and protected!  And, that my hands hurt and have no grip left.

I used about $170 worth of supplies for this little project, plus the cost of the piece.  I’m just trying to break even when I sell it.

But, this, my friends, is why I don’t mind buying already painted pieces (like the gorgeous ones at the top of the post).  It can be worth it.  Having said that, if I knew what I was doing, I could have probably just used 1/2 a quart of the blue, 3/4 of a quart of the white for full coverage and maybe 1/2 the clear wax and 1/4 of the dark wax – max.   But, instead, I blew through it all, which is my fault.

In an ideal world, it should be 1-2 coats of paint, then wax…  distressing and buffing if wanted.

So, yes, ASCP did cover well, but I just happened to do a lot of coats!  So, I’m telling you this in case you “practice” like me and run through a lot of very expensive paint and then need to still sell at a reasonable price.

The Pure White (and I hear, all whites) did not cover  as well.  You may be able to see that in some of the pictures above.

I had to do about three coats of the white for it to look solid.

2.  Waxing.

The paint dries quickly.  Once it’s dry, you will want to was so the paint can’t scratch.  I bought the brush.  Buy the brush.  It’s expensive but helps with the process.  Here is a link to a video on how to wax.  I did what she says to do and it worked for the most part.


Rub it in with the brush, then after you get wax on a small area, wipe it with a cloth to take off the excess, but wipe it aggressively, don’t be afraid of taking off too much.

If you want to do the dark wax, it’s best to do the clear wax first and then the dark wax.  It gets pretty splotchy when it goes directly on to the paint.

It is a little smelly, unlike the paint.

You will ruin cloths on this part.  So, be prepared for that.  Don’t use anything you don’t want to throw away.

Wax may be slightly tacky for a few days.  Don’t put anything on it.  And, don’t really put much on it, even if it feels completely dry, for a few weeks if you can help it.  They say it takes three weeks to cure.

If the wax is really wet/ tacky, you didn’t wipe off enough.  It should be almost dry, but very slightly tacky when you are done.

Even the clear wax will deepen the color.  It gives it more depth – as water would darken unfinished tile – think of it like that.

It’s best to wear a mask and gloves.

I’d probably check out a wax that cures faster next time – I hear Minwax and Fiddes are good.

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3.  Colors.

The colors are limited, but you can mix them.  However, be aware that if you do mix them, it’s important you have enough to finish what you are doing.  It’s almost impossible to hand mix the exact same color twice.

Some conclusions?

Well, I think it’s worth trying.  I think if you like the color choices she has and a slightly distressed (not 100% perfectly smooth and lacquered finish, yet professional) feel, this is a good choice!  It’s worth the money and time saved from sanding and priming.  But, if you aren’t sure about color and may keep repainting like me, I’m not so sure.

I’m not always this uncertain, but was learning to use the product.  In my entry – just painted that piece once in one color!  But, hey, I like to think a little pain for me is helpful to my readers at times.


(Not painted with ASCP.)

Most reps that sell this paint do offer classes, though they aren’t cheap – so I guess you could take a class or buy a bunch like I did and just work for hours…

More soon, Q&A style.  I will share all the questions I asked along the way and answers that I got from my panel of “experts.”

Did this info help?  What questions do you have?  Have you used ASCP?  What is your take on it?


My Adventures with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint So Far

Today I’ll show you the stages of this project, where it’s at (not finished), and ask for your thoughts on some things.  Another day, I’ll do a Q&A on Annie Sloan Chalk Paint and then another day even, I’ll show the actual process of painting it.

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I bought this piece from Craigslist.


It was a piece inherited from a grandparent and then not wanted.  I know, it needs work, but I liked the fretwork lines on the bottom, as of course, they match my faux bamboo fretwork, as well as the fretwork on our coffee table.


I saw potential in the piece (hutch and buffet/ china cabinet).

So, I went to work cleaning it off, knowing I wanted to paint it.  But you have to know yourself, right?  I know I hate sanding and priming.  What product allows you to skip sanding and priming?  Annie Sloan’s Chalk Paint (ASCP)!  It will go right on top of clear coats and stick like a dream – I had heard.

So, I figured it was time to try this ASCP and see what I think.  After all, it’s been all the rage lately.

If it’s so great, why isn’t everyone doing it?  Well, it’s expensive.  Almost $40 a quart.  Not a gallon, but a quart!  However, you are saving on primers and time on sanding…

First step was deciding on a color.


I was thinking a blue.  Maybe white inside.  I threw up this quick (rough) mock up drawing with ASCP’s Duck Egg blue on my Facebook page to see what readers thought.


I told you – rough.  I’m sure a child could have done better, but the point was it was quick.  But, I really like to get a visual on where I’m going when possible.  Many times, I can picture things in my head, but not 100% of the time.

Not too bad.  I also liked the colors Provence and Aubusson Blue with dark wax.  See, that’s another piece of the puzzle – will you do a protective coat in clear wax or dark wax as each affects the paint differently.

I went to Revival in Bee Cave and bought the Duck Egg, Pure White, and Aubusson since they didn’t have the Provence.  I also bought the dark and clear wax and a brush.  And, I got started on the hutch.

I saw this as practice and me just getting to know the paint and waxes.  Let me tell you, I’ve painted and waxed over this thing so many times…  I figured it only helps if I distress – there will be under coats to peek through.  Let’s see some of the coats.


How do you think it’s looking?  Remember the before?


And, so far… (Note that these are all just photos from my phone.)

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Remaining questions -

1. Should I leave the inside white?  Or, do a light gray?

2. Should I stencil the back with another color such as gray or remove the glass and put chicken wire?

3. On the bottom, should I just do all blue with clear and then dark wax or add some white?

Haha, enough questions?  I’d love to hear your thoughts.